May 27, 2022 | Uncategorized
I got out of my old Toyota truck, stood on the ridge, and looked out at the Pacific Ocean. Walls of water were rolling in big and breaking with massive sprays of whitewash being blown by the January wind. Each gust tore across the ocean’s surface, rushing against me...
Apr 20, 2022 | Uncategorized
Nothing compares to riding a wave. One of the greatest joys in my life has been surfing. It’s the most difficult and rewarding thing I ever learned to do. I learned to surf late in life at the age of 25. Because I was living in San Francisco, I taught myself to surf...
Apr 18, 2022 | Uncategorized
I was talking to my girlfriend, Whitney, recently about writing and a particular period of my life, and I said to her, “I knew right in the middle of that time it would make a great story.” That’s what living your life well means to me. When...
Sep 13, 2021 | Uncategorized
Go get green. It’s a simple act. Just go to a park or a beach. Sit in a garden or a backyard. Find a field or a body of water. A river or the sea. Hike on a trail or climb to a mountain top. Spend time in whatever green space you have near and available to you....
Jun 28, 2021 | Uncategorized
I’m not on this beach in this photo right now. Though I was recently and it was magnificent. Where I am now in New Orleans is just as important to me as that Nosara beach was then. Where you are right now, in this very moment, is the place you need to be. Why?...
