Mar 10, 2023 | Uncategorized
It had been years since I paddled out. When I stepped out onto the beach in Nosara, Costa Rica, there were lines upon lines of gorgeous, glassy waves. Shimmering, blue, and peeling both to the left and right. I felt like a little boy getting ready to open birthday...
Nov 4, 2022 | Uncategorized
I went to Vietnam to surf and was forgiven for a war. My knees were bent and nearly touching my stomach as I sat in a small, red plastic chair. I was dripping with sweat and sipping a beer on the curbside of a corner bia hoi in Hanoi, Vietnam. Feeling like a...
Apr 20, 2022 | Uncategorized
Nothing compares to riding a wave. One of the greatest joys in my life has been surfing. It’s the most difficult and rewarding thing I ever learned to do. I learned to surf late in life at the age of 25. Because I was living in San Francisco, I taught myself to surf...
Mar 21, 2022 | Uncategorized
When I was 23, I spent two months traveling throughout Turkey. I was called Indiana Jones during a party of belly dancers on the Black Sea and nearly died of food poisoning on the Syrian border. I was shown secret underground caves in Cappadocia for a bottle of raki...
