Mar 10, 2023 | Uncategorized
It had been years since I paddled out. When I stepped out onto the beach in Nosara, Costa Rica, there were lines upon lines of gorgeous, glassy waves. Shimmering, blue, and peeling both to the left and right. I felt like a little boy getting ready to open birthday...
Apr 20, 2022 | Uncategorized
Nothing compares to riding a wave. One of the greatest joys in my life has been surfing. It’s the most difficult and rewarding thing I ever learned to do. I learned to surf late in life at the age of 25. Because I was living in San Francisco, I taught myself to surf...
Jun 28, 2021 | Uncategorized
I’m not on this beach in this photo right now. Though I was recently and it was magnificent. Where I am now in New Orleans is just as important to me as that Nosara beach was then. Where you are right now, in this very moment, is the place you need to be. Why?...