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The Joy of Being a Surfer — One Morning on the Big Island

The Joy of Being a Surfer — One Morning on the Big Island

Apr 20, 2022 | Uncategorized

Nothing compares to riding a wave. One of the greatest joys in my life has been surfing. It’s the most difficult and rewarding thing I ever learned to do. I learned to surf late in life at the age of 25. Because I was living in San Francisco, I taught myself to surf...

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