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When in Doubt, Paddle Out — Why Surfers Choose to be Ageless

When in Doubt, Paddle Out — Why Surfers Choose to be Ageless

May 27, 2022 | Uncategorized

I got out of my old Toyota truck, stood on the ridge, and looked out at the Pacific Ocean. Walls of water were rolling in big and breaking with massive sprays of whitewash being blown by the January wind. Each gust tore across the ocean’s surface, rushing against me...

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