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When in Doubt, Paddle Out — Why Surfers Choose to be Ageless (Surf Memoir)

When in Doubt, Paddle Out — Why Surfers Choose to be Ageless (Surf Memoir)

May 27, 2022 | surfing suping and diving, travel

I got out of my old Toyota truck, stood on the ridge, and looked out at the Pacific Ocean. Walls of water were rolling in big and breaking with massive sprays of whitewash being blown by the January wind. Each gust tore across the ocean’s surface, rushing against me...

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